Interview Magazine, May 2010. Shot by Mikael Jansson.
About a week ago I was meeting some friends for brunch. I was early so I went into a convenience store and to my surprise they carried Interview Magazine. I was so excited that I bought a copy without hesitation.
As I waited for my friends I flicked through it casually and when I saw the Daria photo shoot I can honestly tell you that my first reaction was shock then total repulsion. Honestly how do these black models feel about being used as a backdrop for a white model? Maybe I'm biased because Daria went to my high school (one year above me) but I also feel totally embarrassed. Canadian models are fashion ambassadors for Canada and with that in mind they should represent the positive aspects of the fashion industry.
Don't think this is racist? Then why are the black models dressed like homeless people (pardon me if those rags are in fact designer rags but they are rags nonetheless), and why does the set look like some hollywoodized ghetto nightmare?
When I delved into the deeper intellectual implications of this imagery all that I could think was that Daria was meant to represent some sort of victim and the black models behind her, sexual predators. This imagery is heavily reminiscent of nineteenth century ideas about blacks being inherently criminal and sexually deviant. It's not something that I expect to see anywhere in 2010, especially not in a much loved fashion magazine.
I'm even reminded of William Hogarth's Gin Lane, especially by this image with the beer bottle (note the similar draping of bodies):
Interview Magazine, May 2010.Shot by Mikael Jansson
Gin Lane, 1751. William Hogarth.
Even without Daria posed on top I would still question these images based on the combination of other elements like the aforementioned beer bottle, the burnt-out car and the sweaty, raggedy models.
There seems to be this notion that art can't be racist and that fashion can't be racist either, as if the two were so ethereal and pure that they were incapable of reflecting the darker elements of humanity.
On what level are these images not racist?
I used to think that Daria's cellulite cream ads for Lancome were in poor taste but after seeing this photoshoot I am left wondering, what won't she do for her career? Would she pose with dead infants, Crack addicts or the homeless if someone told her that it was art?
Maybe she's just in it for the money but then hasn't she made oodles by now?
No doubt people reading this will think that I'm impulsive, overly sensitive, perhaps even just stupid. However, an opinion is just an expression of ones feelings or beliefs and art is subjective after all.
So is this art?
Yes, but I don't have to like it or agree with the message that it conveys.
Please also read the excellent post on True Queen
*Above Photos taken from Fashionising
*Hogarth Print taken from British Museum
12 comments:
I definitely agree with you - if I were Daria, I would not feel comfortable with the results of this shoot. Is it possible that she did not know how it would all turn out? Aside from the blatant racism, they are some pretty lewd pictures...the models are dripping in grease and there's alot of crotch - particularly in the second pic!!
You've pulled out even more points about this that I missed. I know that fashion although I love it is stuck in a time warp, and being black myself makes me feel very dissapointed that these ideals still exist.
But with my love for fashion I try to concentrate on the good and beautiful,unfortunately I can't ignore images this compelling. Daria needs a reality check if she thinks there isn't something wrong with these images.
Loved hearing your point of view!
True Queen
I don't think this shoot of Daria's fault. She is just the model and is supposed to do what the photographer and stylists ask her to. Let's not give her any flak for this!
Also, fashion shoots are very often irreverent and inappropriate. But, there is one thing we should keep in mind. Fashion shoots are first and foremost a work of escapism bordering on fiction. So, I have stopped bothering with shoots that are inaccurate or racist!
PS- Great post! I have added you to my blogroll too!
I see where you're coming from, it is quite offensive but, to be honest, I focus on the 'background' rather than Daria!
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You raise some good points and I like the similarities of the shoot to that infamous Hogarth print.
Art is a funny thing and it can be interpreted in a multitude of ways. I mean I studied Orientalism during my undergrad and too often have I laughed at the politically incorrect editorials in Vogue based on 'the orient' and harems...
I don't think Daria would have had much say in this shot.
Anyway, great post, really made me think :)
wow. i havent seen this before- but i didnt like it either. you write so well about this- i cant do anything but agree with you.
the editorial is not pretty or good- its just destructive and horrid.
hope youre having a wonderful week- and that youve got more time on you hand
xx ediot
www.ediot.org
Oh god... that is so so wrong. Even if the black men and women didn't have distinctly different styles of clothing and weren't drinking/seemingly attacking Daria/standing around a burnt out car in an alley the fact that the focus is all on the one white woman while a group of black people basically act as her background and props. Even in the last shot where Daria is in the background she still literally 'outshines' the other models as the lighting focuses on her.
And i agree about there being predatory undertones. Particularly in the first photo. After you pointed it out i looked closer and to me it seems to imply that Daria has passed out and then is being carried by the one black model who is staring in the camera lense in an agressive manner.
And i agree with t he other commented that Daria probably wouldn't have much say in this shot, i'd like to think that if i was a model (ha ha) and was asked to basically lie on a pile of black people acting as my background i would say no.
The argument that racism in art is ok is a difficult thing to discuss. I believe that sometimes you can use racist stereotypes in art to actually prove a point about how stupid racism in (like in Ghost World) and that would make you discuss the issues and things but to me this just looks like they thought Daria would look prettier and 'above' the other models. There's no issues behind it.
It reminds me of this: http://www.blogcdn.com/www.switched.com/media/2007/08/white-psp-ad.jpg
The awful advert for the white PSP.
...Wow i really am disgusted.
At first I was confused thinking, "Is this supposed to be a shoot inspired by Daria as in the Beavis & Butthead spin-off?" Ha.. how weird would that be? I assume Daria is the model's name and yeah, this is offensive. Looks like Interview needs a visit from HR for some diversity training.
You guys are all awesome. In fact you are so awesome I'm going to write a post right now about how awesome you guys are!
As for Daria, yes I was hard on her especially when you consider that many people were involved in the creation of this shoot. My intention was not to imply that Daria herself harbors racist attitudes.However, at the same time as Lillian pointed out above, Daria could have said 'no'.
A good example would be Coco Rocha who flat out refuses to do nude, semi-nude and cigarette shots. The last time I checked Coco still has a career (saw her at Strut for a Cure the other week)so at the end of the day everyone still has a choice.
Once again thank you all for commenting and sharing your opinions on this issue.
Let's not forget that finding work for black models these days is like finding a needle in a haystack. So when I see shoots like this, it hurts. Something needs to give.....
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